Rubyfish: Difference between revisions
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== Developer Dock == | == Developer Dock == | ||
You will need to build a dock to access the USB pads since the stock cable does not connect to the inner D+ / D- data pads. This one has been developed by the community and | You will need to build a dock to access the USB pads since the stock cable does not connect to the inner D+ / D- data pads. This one has been developed by the community and tested working multiple times now: | ||
https://www.printables.com/model/634749-ticwatch-pro-3-developer-usb-data-dock-using-pogo | https://www.printables.com/model/634749-ticwatch-pro-3-developer-usb-data-dock-using-pogo | ||
The specs for the pogo-pins used in the dock assembly: | |||
[[File:Rover-dock-pogo.jpg|none|thumb]] | [[File:Rover-pogopins.webp|none|thumb]] | ||
Then use a 1.5mm drill bit to widen the channels in the 3D Print and insert the pogo pin assembly. | Remember to first solder the pogo-pins to the USB-cable:[[File:Rover-dock-pogo.jpg|none|thumb]] | ||
[[File:Rover-rubyfish-dock.jpg|none|thumb]] | Then use a 1.5mm drill bit to widen the channels in the 3D Print and insert the pogo-pin assembly. | ||
You can be lucky and your 3D printer produces the channels with 1.5mm. The model has them at 1.56mm. | |||
Users report however, that even with well calibrated printers, its hard to get those exact. | |||
[[File:Rover-rubyfish-dock.jpg|none|thumb]]Order from left to right in pictured orientation: black (GND/ground), white (DATA/D-), green (/DATA/D+), red (VCC/+5V) | |||
In case the pogo-pins do not stick out far enough to make connection with the watches pads after inserting them: Adjust the soldering iron to 150′C and gently press them deeper, melting them into the plastic. | |||
If they are protruding too much and push the watch off the dock: Use gel-or hot-glue to adjust their height and fix them into position. Avoid using thin/liquid glue as it can run down the channels and glue the pogo- pin springs. | |||
Latest revision as of 18:01, 2 March 2026
Description
This watch is sold in several variations:
| Model Number | Model Name | Codename |
|---|---|---|
| WH12018 | TicWatch Pro | rubyfish |
| WH12018 | TicWatch Pro 3 Ultra GPS | rubyfish |
| WH11013 | TicWatch Pro 3 Cellular/LTE | rover |
| WH11013 | TicWatch Pro 3 Ultra | rover |
Although there are variations in the physical size and appearance of these watches, all models use the same rubyfish AsteroidOS image.
Developer Dock
You will need to build a dock to access the USB pads since the stock cable does not connect to the inner D+ / D- data pads. This one has been developed by the community and tested working multiple times now:
https://www.printables.com/model/634749-ticwatch-pro-3-developer-usb-data-dock-using-pogo
The specs for the pogo-pins used in the dock assembly:
Remember to first solder the pogo-pins to the USB-cable:
Then use a 1.5mm drill bit to widen the channels in the 3D Print and insert the pogo-pin assembly.
You can be lucky and your 3D printer produces the channels with 1.5mm. The model has them at 1.56mm.
Users report however, that even with well calibrated printers, its hard to get those exact.
Order from left to right in pictured orientation: black (GND/ground), white (DATA/D-), green (/DATA/D+), red (VCC/+5V)
In case the pogo-pins do not stick out far enough to make connection with the watches pads after inserting them: Adjust the soldering iron to 150′C and gently press them deeper, melting them into the plastic.
If they are protruding too much and push the watch off the dock: Use gel-or hot-glue to adjust their height and fix them into position. Avoid using thin/liquid glue as it can run down the channels and glue the pogo- pin springs.